Jean-Pierre Frésafond

Biography

Jean-Pierre Frésafond, born in 1936 in Montfavet, Vaucluse, discovered mountaineering after returning from the Algerian War. He began his mountaineering career at the age of 25, after leaving the family farm to become an industrial sales representative. From his earliest years, he distinguished himself on major routes such as the Walker Spur in the Grandes Jorasses and the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. In 1967, he joined the Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM), which opened the doors to international expeditions: he climbed in the Iranian Caucasus, the Hindu Kush, and the Andes, and in 1972 participated in an expedition to the Gurja Himal in Nepal. He made history in French mountaineering in 1975 by leading the Lyon expedition that successfully completed the second ascent of Gasherbrum II (8,035 m), the first peak over 8,000 meters for a Lyon team. Despite the death of Bernard Villaret during the expedition, Yannick Seigneur and Marc Batard opened the south ridge and reached the summit under his leadership. Frésafond recounts this adventure in his book Expédition au Gasherbrum 2, Lyon premier 8000 (1977). In 1979, he led a new national expedition to Nanga Parbat, stopping at 7,000 meters on the Mazenod ridge, an experience he would recount in La revanche de l’Himalaya (1980). He became president of the GHM in 1984 and organized an expedition to K2 the following year. He also serves as president of the Lyon branch of the French Alpine Club and sits on the executive committee of the French Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (FFME), spending a decade involved in the governing bodies of French mountaineering. Jean-Pierre Frésafond has written several books, primarily focusing on his high-altitude expeditions and spiritual reflections. Among his best-known works are: Expédition Au Gasherbrum II, Lyon premier 8000 (1966), an account of the landmark expedition to Gasherbrum II, which was both tragic and victorious; and La Revanche Re l’Himalaya (1980), which recounts his experience during the Nanga Parbat expedition. He also published works on more spiritual subjects, notably about the Jesuit Father Teilhard de Chardin, whose association he founded in Lyon and which he chaired until 2015: The Abbot Did Not Have the Right to Speak Like That..., prefaced by Yves Peysson (2000); The Abbot Did Not Have the Right to Speak Like That... Teilhard de Chardin Meets Non-Believers (2007); and Islam Explained to Other Believers, prefaced by Dalil Boubakeur (2015). These titles illustrate his dual commitment as a mountaineer and thinker, combining Himalayan adventures with philosophical, ethical, and humanist questions. Jean-Pierre Frésafond was also recognized for his generosity and his ability to give young mountaineers, such as Marc Batard, a chance to succeed. He died on May 4, 2023 at the age of 87, leaving behind the image of a great expedition organizer, a Himalayan climber, a major figure in Lyon and French mountaineering, and a committed author.